Radon Mitigation Woodbury MN installs active sub-slab depressurization systems that pull radon gas from the soil under your basement slab and vent it above the roofline. Each system pairs a suction pit, sealed PVC pipe, an inline radon fan outside the living space, and a U-tube manometer that shows the system runs. We seal slab cracks, floor drains, and sump lids so the fan pulls from the soil, not your basement air.
The EPA action level is 4 pCi/L, and the Minnesota Department of Health reports that more than two in five Minnesota homes have radon at a level that poses a significant health risk. We test with short-term kits and continuous radon monitors, retest after every install, and repair or replace failed fans. Call for a free quote.
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Tell us about your home and your latest radon test result. We reply with clear next steps and a written quote.
We design each system to bring your home below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L. We check sub-slab suction with a diagnostic test before we size the fan. MDH advises homeowners to get a valid test showing reduced levels before full payment, and we work that way on every job.
Minnesota requires anyone who designs or installs a radon mitigation system in a building they do not own to hold an MDH radon license. Every system gets an MDH system tag next to the manometer on the day of completion. Ask any radon contractor for their MDH license number before you sign.
Your written quote lists the fan model, pipe route, number of suction points, sealing work, permit, and post-mitigation test. You know the full price before we drill. MDH warns homeowners to question quotes under $1,000, so we explain every line on yours.

Sub-slab depressurization is the core active radon mitigation system. We core a hole through the basement slab, dig out a suction pit, and run PVC pipe to an inline fan in the attic, garage, or on an exterior wall. The fan creates negative pressure under the slab and vents soil gas above the roof. EPA lists 50 to 99 percent radon reduction for this method.

Short-term tests run two to 90 days. Long-term tests run more than 90 days and capture seasonal swings. We place the device on the lowest lived-in level, at least 20 inches above the floor, with windows and outside doors closed. Calibrated continuous radon monitors record hourly readings, which gives you a clear picture before you decide on a radon mitigation system.

Every system we install gets a follow-up test. The EPA says to retest no sooner than 24 hours after the fan starts and within 30 days of installation. The ANSI/AARST mitigation standards Minnesota follows require a post-mitigation test, and the result gets reported to MDH. You see the before and after numbers in writing before you pay in full.

A failed fan, a cracked pipe joint, or a manometer that reads level means your radon system stopped working. We diagnose fan motors, check suction with the manometer, reseal leaky joints, and replace worn fans with quiet inline models such as RadonAway. We also upgrade older systems that never reached the 4 pCi/L action level.

Dirt crawl spaces leak radon straight into the home. We lay a heavy plastic membrane over the soil, run it up the foundation walls, and seal every seam. A suction pipe under the membrane connects to the fan for sub-membrane depressurization. The EPA lists 50 to 99 percent reduction for this method and less heat loss than open crawl space vents in cold climates.
Minnesota building code has required a passive radon control system in new homes since 2009. A passive system uses gas-permeable fill, a soil-gas membrane, and a vent pipe that runs at least 12 inches above the roof. Passive does not guarantee a low reading. We activate the system with a fan in the attic at the prewired electrical box and add a manometer.


Open slab cracks, floor drains, and sump pits let soil gas bypass the system. We seal cracks with polyurethane caulk, install airtight gasketed sump lids, and close the gaps at the slab edge. Sealing makes the fan pull harder from the soil. EPA does not recommend sealing alone, so we pair it with an active radon mitigation system.
Finished basements need careful pipe routes. We run pipe through closets, utility rooms, or the garage, then up to a fan in the garage attic. Exterior routes go up the side of the house in paintable downspout-style covers. MDH rules keep the fan out of any livable space, and the discharge stays 10 feet above ground and away from windows.


Townhome rows and condo buildings share slabs and walls, so one unit's radon problem often touches the next. We test units to the ANSI/AARST multifamily protocol, design systems building by building, and coordinate with HOA boards and property managers on access and resident notice.

Schools and child care centers need testing to the ANSI/AARST protocol for schools and large buildings. We test classrooms and rooms in contact with the ground, schedule work outside class hours, and design multi-fan sub-slab systems for large footprints.

Offices, clinics, and retail spaces built on slabs collect radon like homes do. We test, design sub-slab depressurization for the floor plan, and route pipe and fans to stay out of sight of customers and staff.

Landlords with single-family rentals and duplexes get testing, mitigation, and written results for their records. We work around tenant schedules and give you documentation of the post-mitigation test for each unit.

Churches, fellowship halls, and community centers often have large basements used for classes, meals, and meetings. We test those lower-level rooms, design sub-slab systems for big slabs with several suction points, and schedule installs around services and events.

Buyers and sellers need fast, valid numbers. We run continuous monitor tests under closed-house conditions for at least 48 hours, the minimum MDH sets for real estate tests. When results come back high, we quote the radon mitigation system right away so the install and retest fit your closing date or escrow holdback.

The fan is the engine of an active radon mitigation system. We install sealed inline fans built for continuous duty, such as RadonAway models, and match fan size to the suction your slab needs. Tight soil calls for a high-suction fan. Loose gravel moves air with a smaller, quieter fan. The fan sits outside living space every time.

EPA requires a warning device on every active system. A U-tube manometer mounts on the pipe and shows suction at a glance. When the fluid levels sit uneven, the fan pulls. When they read level, the fan stopped. We mark the starting reading on the gauge and can add an audible alarm.

A suction pit is the hollow we dig under the slab where the pipe enters. We remove several gallons of fill to open up airflow and extend the pressure field across the basement. Large slabs, footings that split the soil, and dense clay may need a second suction point. Diagnostic readings tell us where each one goes.

We use solid PVC pipe, glued at every joint and sloped so condensation drains back to the soil. The pipe discharges above the roof edge, at least 10 feet above ground and 10 feet from windows, doors, and openings, as MDH and EPA require. Every pipe gets a label so future owners know what it is.

Crawl space radon control starts with a durable plastic membrane. We cover the exposed soil, run the sheet up onto the walls, and seal seams and edges with tape and caulk. A suction pipe under the membrane pulls soil gas out before it reaches the home. The membrane also cuts moisture from the dirt floor.

Every open hole in the slab steals suction from the system. We install clear, gasketed sump lids that let you see the pump, seal floor drains with trap seals that still let water pass, and caulk the joint where the slab meets the wall. These seals make each fan work less and hold the pressure field.
We start with your numbers. If you have a recent valid test, we review it. If not, we place a continuous radon monitor on the lowest lived-in level under closed-house conditions and give you the hourly results.
We walk the basement, crawl space, and garage, check the slab, sump, and drain tile, and plan the pipe route and fan location. You get a written quote with every part and step listed.
We drill a small test hole and measure how air moves under the slab. The readings tell us how many suction points your home needs and which fan size fits the soil.
We core the slab, dig the suction pit, glue and hang the PVC pipe, mount the fan, seal cracks and the sump, and install the manometer. We attach the MDH system tag at completion.
After the fan runs at least 24 hours, we test again within the 30-day EPA window. You get the before and after numbers in writing, and we show you how to read the manometer.
The EPA recommends a retest at least every two years. Retest sooner after you finish a basement, remodel, or replace the fan. Check the manometer every few months so you catch a stopped fan early.

Angi puts the typical radon mitigation system in the Minneapolis area between $1,242 and $1,563, with an average of $1,367. Homes built 1980 to 2009 run $1,000 to $1,900. Homes built before 1980 run $1,570 to $2,100. Passive system activation in homes built after 2009 runs $700 to $800.
Typical System: $1,242 to $1,563
Source: Angi, Minneapolis area

The Minnesota Department of Health puts installation between $1,500 and $3,000. Your cost depends on foundation type, home age, the soil under the slab, the pipe route, and the number of suction points. Basement sealing adds $400 to $4,600 when the slab needs it. Your final price needs an on-site estimate.
MDH Range: $1,500 to $3,000
Source: Minnesota Department of Health
Talk to Radon Mitigation Woodbury MN about testing, a new radon system, or a repair. Your quote is free.
Minnesota's Radon Awareness Act took effect January 1, 2014. It changed how radon shows up in every home sale.
Sellers disclose: Before a purchase agreement, sellers must disclose in writing any known radon test results and any mitigation system, and give buyers the MDH radon publication.
Testing is not required: State law requires disclosure, not testing. MDH strongly recommends that all buyers test before purchase or occupancy.
Test length: MDH sets 48 hours as the minimum for a real estate radon test, under closed-house conditions.
Winter runs higher: Radon exposure in Minnesota runs higher in winter, when windows stay closed. Warm air rises and leaves the house, which draws soil gas in at the slab. This is the stack effect.
Newer homes still test: Homes built since 2009 have passive radon pipes, but passive does not mean low. Test them too.
A high result does not kill a sale. A radon mitigation system and a passing retest fit inside most closing timelines.
Radon Mitigation Woodbury MN serves homeowners and businesses across Washington County and the east metro. Call if your town is not listed.
Woodbury | Cottage Grove | Oakdale | Lake Elmo | Maplewood | Afton | Newport | St. Paul Park | Lakeland | Landfall | North St. Paul | Inver Grove Heights | Stillwater | Hastings | St. Paul
The EPA recommends that you fix your home when radon tests at 4 pCi/L or higher. The EPA also notes that any radon exposure carries some risk and says to consider a fix between 2 and 4 pCi/L.
The EPA calls radon the number one cause of lung cancer among non-smokers and the second leading cause of lung cancer overall. It estimates about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year from radon. Radon has no color or smell, so a test is the only way to know your level.
A fan pulls air from a suction pit under your slab through sealed PVC pipe and vents it above the roof. That negative pressure keeps soil gas from entering the basement. A manometer on the pipe shows the system runs.
Yes. Minnesota requires anyone who designs or installs a radon mitigation system in a building they do not own or lease to hold an MDH radon license. Each system gets an MDH tag. Ask any contractor for their license number before you sign.
Not always. Minnesota code has required passive radon systems in new homes since 2009. A passive system relies on natural airflow and does not guarantee a reading under 4 pCi/L. Test your home. If it tests high, we add a fan to activate the system.
No. The EPA does not recommend sealing alone, because sealing by itself has not lowered radon significantly or consistently. We seal cracks, drains, and sump pits as part of an active system so the fan works better.